THCH: Phnom Penh History

Phnom Penh (Khmer: ភ្នំពេញ, Official Romanization: Phnum Pénh. Literally: "Hill of Penh") is the capital and largest city of Cambodia. Phnom Penh has been the capital since the French colonized Cambodia, and has become the country's economic center. After 1979, Phnom Penh has grown to become a source of industry, commerce and culture.Once known as the "Pearl of Asia" Phnom Penh was considered one of the loveliest of French-built cities in Indochina in the 1920s, with its wide boulevards and picturesque squares. Phnom Penh, along with Siem Reap and Sihanoukville are a significant international and domestic tourist destinations in Cambodia. The city is still noted for a place of great historical beauty and cultural attractions. The number of surviving examples of French colonial architecture, such as The Royal Palace, embody the soul of classic as well as the modern social lifestyle in this developing economy.Situated at confluence of the Tonlé Sap, Mekong and Bassac Rivers, Phnom Penh is now home to two million people. Around 60% of the population is Cambodian; about 30% is either Chinese-Cambodian or Vietnamese-Cambodian; other nationalities make up the remainder. Though approximately 15% of inhabitants live below the poverty line, Phnom Penh is the largest and wealthiest city in Cambodia.

Etymology

Front View of Wat Phnom

Phnom Penh City takes its name from what is now Wat Phnom or Hill Temple. Legend has it that in 1372, an old nun named Penh went to fetch water from the Mekong river and saw a dead Koki tree floating down the stream. She looked inside the hole of that dead Koki tree, and found five Buddha statues, four bronze and one stone.
Daun Penh (Grandma Penh) brought the statues ashore and ordered people to pile up earth northeast of her house and use the Koki trunks to build a temple on that hill to house the five Buddha statues. She named the temple after herself as Wat Phnom Daun Penh, now known as Wat Phnom. The hill stands 27 m (89 ft) high.
Before Duan Penh, Phnom Penh was known as Krong Chaktomuk, meaning "City of Four Faces." This name refers to the junction where the Mekong, Bassac, and Tonlé Sap Rivers cross to form an "X" where the capital is situated. Krong Chaktomuk is an abbreviation of its ceremonial name given by King Ponhea Yat. Its full name was "Krong Chaktomuk Mongkol Sakal Kampuchea Thipadei Sereythor Inthabot Borei Roth Reach Seima Maha Nokor," which translates roughly to "The place of four rivers that give happiness and success to the Kampuchean Kingdom, the highest leader, as well as impregnable city of God Indra."

History

Phnom Penh first became the capital of Cambodia after Ponhea Yat, King of the Khmer Empire, moved the capital from Angkor Thom after the Thais captured it a few years earlier. The stupa behind Wat Phnom houses the remains of Ponhea Yat and the royal family as well as the remaining Buddhist statues from the Angkorean era.
Phnom Penh remained the royal capital for 1432 to 1505. The city was then abandoned for 360 years from 1505 to 1865 due to internal fighting between subsequent kings and other members of the court. Later kings moved the capital several times and established their royal capitals at various locations in Tuol Basan (Srey Santhor), Pursat, Longvek, Lavear Em and Oudong.
It was not until 1866, under the reign of King Norodom I, that Phnom Penh became the permanent seat of government, and the Royal Palace was built. Beginning in 1870, the French Colonialists had turned the riverside village into a city when it started to build hotels, schools, prisons, barracks, banks, public works offices, telegraph offices, law courts, and health services buildings. In 1872, the first glimpse of a modern city took shape when the colonial administration contracted a French contractor, Le Faucheur, to construct the city's first 300 concrete houses for sales and rentals to the Chinese traders.
By the 1920s, Phnom Penh was known as the Pearl of Asia, and over the next four decades, the city continued to experience growth with the building of a railway to Sihanoukville and the Pochentong International Airport (now Phnom Penh International Airport). Phnom Penh under the period of Sihanouk’s rule saw expansion and the construction of many modern infrastructures.

The exterior of the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, Phnom Penh

During the Vietnam War, the North Vietnamese Army and the Viet Cong used Cambodia as a base. Thousands of refugees from across the country flooded the city to escape the fighting between their own government troops, the NVA/NLF, the South Vietnamese and its allies, and the Khmer Rouge. By early 1975, the population was 2 million, the bulk of whom were refugees. The city fell to the Khmer Rouge on April 17, 1975. Many of its residents, including those who were wealthy and educated, were sentenced to hard labor on rural farms as "new people." Tuol Svay Prey High School was taken over by Pol Pot's forces and was turned into S-21, a prison camp where Cambodians were detained and tortured. Pol Pot sought a return to an agrarian economy and therefore killed many people perceived to be educated, "lazy," or political enemies. Many others starved to death as a result of the failed agrarian society and the sale of Cambodia's rice to China in exchange for bullets and weapons. The former high school is now the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, where Khmer Rouge torture devices and photos of their victims are displayed. Choeung Ek (The Killing Fields), 15 kilometres (9 mi) away, where the Khmer Rouge marched prisoners from Tuol Sleng to be murdered and buried in shallow pits, is also now a memorial to those who were killed by the regime.
1979, the Vietnamese liberated Cambodia by driving the Khmer Rouge out of Phnom Penh, thus allowing people to return to the city. Vietnam is historically a state with which Cambodia has had many conflicts; this liberation therefore was and still is viewed with mixed emotions by the Cambodians. A period of reconstruction began, spurred by continuing stability of government, attracting new foreign investment and aid by countries including France, Australia, and Japan. Loans were made from the Asian Development Bank and the World Bank to reinstate a clean water supply, roads and other infrastructure. The 1998 Census put Phnom Penh's population at 862,000;by the next census in 2008, it was 1.3 million.

IMPORTANT FIGURES IN PHNOM PENH'S HISTORY

1372
GRANDMA PENH

Grandma Penh or Daun Penh, Phnom Penh's namesake, was wealthy widow who settled on high land at the west bank of Chrap Chheam River, now the Tonlé Sap River next to Chaktomuk. During a flood, there were many Koki trees floating along the river. Duan Penh found a Koki tree and inside, there were five buddha statues: four bronze and one stone. In 1372, Daun Penh ordered people to pile up earth northeast of her house and used those Koki trunks to construct a temple on that hill to keep the five statues in a temple named Wat Phnom Daun Penh, now Wat Phnom.

1432-1505
H.M. CHAO PONHEA YAT: (1421) 1432-1462

Son of H.M Srey Soriyovong II, H.M. Chao Ponhea Yat abandonned Angkor City in 1431 Angkor City, due to ceaseless aggression from the Thais. He temporarily moved to Tuol Basan City, what is now Srey Santhor; however, he had to resettle again a year later due to flooding in the region. The king moved to Chaktomuk City, what is now Phnom Penh.
H.M. Chao Ponhea Yat commissioned construction around the city; he ordered the district leader of Samrong Tong Province, Chao Ponhea Decho, to bank up dirt around the hill and the area close to river to construct royal palace. He also ordered the digging of Decho Lake, now Psar Thmey (Central Market).
The king developed the city's reservoirs and hydraulic system by constructing dams and building canals, including the Oknha Phlong Canal, now the Sakhaya Moni Chedey Garden.
He also reconstructed the Wat Phnom Duan Penh temple, and built a great stupa behind the temple, then renamed the temple, Wat Preah Chedey Borapoa.
King Ponhea Yat also renamed the city, "Krong Chaktomuk Mongkul Sakal Kampuchear Thipadey Sereythor Bovor Inthabath Borey Rath Reach Seima Moha Nokor" which translates roughly to "The place of four rivers that give happiness and success to the Kampuchean Kingdom, the highest leader, as well as impregnable city of God Indra."
King Ponhea Yat also constructed six monasteries.

H.M. NEAREAY REACHEA: 1462-1467

H.M. Neareay Reachea, the first son of H.M. Chao Ponhea Yat reigned for only five years, during which he constructed stupa on Phnom Daun Penh to bury the ashes of his father.
He built his palace at Chroy Roluos, in a southeastern neighbourhood of the city.

H.M. SREY REACHEA: 1467-1474

H.M. Srey Reachea, the second son of H.M Chao Ponhea Yat and younger brother of H.M Neareay Reachea.
To construct stupa at the foot of Phnom Daun Penh hill, at northeast, to bury the ashes of H.M. Neareay Reachea
He built his palace at Tuol Preah Srey, west of the Okor Canal, which is now the Preah Puth Meanbon Pagoda.

H.M. THOAM REACHEA: 1474-1494

H.M. Thoam Reachea, the third son of H.M Chao Ponhea Yat and younger brother of H.M Srey Reachea and H. M. Neareay Reachea

H.M. SOKUNTH BATH: 1494-1505

H.M. Sokuson Bath, the son of H.M Thoam Reachea reigned for some time at Chaktomuk City, then moved to Tuol Basan.
His younger brother, Crown Prince Chan Reachea, remained at Chaktomuk

1505-1865

Due to the frequent change of royal palace location, royal bickering and the battle for rule, Chaktomuk City was abandoned for 360 years.
Capital cities during this time included Tuol Buol Basan, Pursat, Lungvek, Lavear Em, and Udong.

1865-1998
H.M. NORODOM: (1860) 1865-1904

The first son of H.M. Angduong, King Norodom moved the capital from Udong City to Phnom Penh in 1865.
At that time, Cambodia was occupied and governed by neighboring countries; as a result, the population of whole country totaled only 1 million.
Phnom Penh itself had only 10,000 people, who lived in rows of huts made of bamboo and wood built 1.5 m above ground along the Tonlé Sap river bank. In the city, there was only one road on which buffalo carts traveled. The road ran along the river bank, and is now known as Quay Preah Sisowath.
In 1866 Phnom Penh was divided into 3 villages:

Catholic Village: northern district, Russey Keo vicinity, Vietnamese enclave.
Chen Village: central district, along the Tonlé Sap river, Chinese enclave.
Khmer Village: southern district around royal palace and Wat Unalaom, Khmer neighbourhoods.

Norodom, in cooperation with the French Colonial Administration, began developing Phnom Penh.
In 1870, the government began constructing hotels, schools, prisons, barracks, banks, public works offices, telegraph offices, law courts, and health services facilities.
In 1872, Norodom ordered French contractor, Le Faucheur, to construct 300 concrete houses for selling and renting to Chinese traders
Between 1884 and 1895, Norodom and the French Colonial Administration dug inner city canals, built bridges, established a zoo, created a water plant, and constructed Boulevard Doubart de Lagrée, which is now Boulevard Preah Norodom.
By 1897, the population of Phnom Penh was close to 50,000 people:

H.M. SISOWATH : 1904-1927

King Sisowath was the second son of H.M. Angduong, and the younger brother of H.M. Norodom.
During his reign, King Sisowath dredged the Mekong and Tonlé Sap rivers in order to facilitate marine navigation to and around Phnom Penh
In 1914 he expanded the capital city to the west and to the south until Bassac river.

H.M. MONIVONG: 1927-1941

King Monivong was the second son of H.M. Sisowath and like his father and uncle before him, acted as a figurehead for the French government in Cambodia.
During his reign, Monivong filled in Decho Lake, constructed an iron bridge – now Preah Monivong Bridge, constructed a railway station and railway to Battambang, constructed Boulevard Miche – now Boulevard Preah Monivong and Verdun Avenue – now Boulevard J. Nerhu and Avenue Preah Sihanouk, and constructed the Grand Market, now Psar Thom Thmey
By 1939, the population of Phnom Penh totaled 108,000; the population of whole Cambodia totaled about 3,000,000.

H.M. SIHANOUK: 1941-1998

Newphew of H.M. Monivong, H.M. Sihanouk was elected to the throne by the French Colonial Administration as seen as more "pliable" than his cousin, Monivong's son.
Sihanouk was crowned king on April 23 1941; however, during his tumultuous rule, he abdicated several times.
In 1955, Sihanouk abdicated to his father, H.M. Norodom Soramarit, who ruled until 1960, and then abdicated to his mother, H.M. Sisowath Kosomak Neary Rath, who ruled from 1960 to 1970.
In 1998, Sihanouk abdicated for the last time, to his son H.M. Norodom Sihamoni.

A. The Kingdom of Cambodia: 1941-1970

Between 1942 and 1962, the population of Phnom Penh grew from 111,000 to 394,000
During his reign, Sihanouk expanded the Tuol Kork zone (1961), constructed another boulevard, now Boulevard Mao Tse Tong (1958), the International Olympic Stadium (1963), a railway to Kampong Som Ville, the International airport of Pochentong in Phnom Penh, the Tonle Bassac Theater and Casino (1964), and the Sangkum Reah Niyum Bridge, now the Cambodia-Japan Friendship Bridge (1966).
Additionally, he constructed many pagodas, hospitals, factories, roads, dams and canals. The development and progress at every level inspired international communities to title Phnom Penh, the "Pearl of Asia."

B. Khmer Republic: 1970-1975

By 1970, the population of Phnom Penh had grown to 900,000
As the Communist insurgency got stronger, people living in provincial towns and cities started to flee into Phnom Penh for shelter, forming refugee villages and squatters huts
In 1973, The Khmer Rouge mined Chroy Chang War Bridge twice.
By 1975, the population of Phnom Penh had swollen to 2,000,000 people.

C. Democratic Cambodia: 1975-1979

On April 17, 1975, all Phnom Penh residents were forced out of the city by the Khmer Rouge, and driven to live and farm at rural areas.
For 3 years, 8 months and 20 days, Phnom Penh was abandoned.

D. People's Republic of Cambodia: 1979-1989

On January 7, 1979, a largely provincial population of about 100,000 returned to live in Phnom Penh
1985, the population of Phnom Penh had grown to 427,000 people, many of whom helped to rehabilitate Phnom Penh after it had been so damaged and neglected from the war

E. State of Cambodia: 1989-1992

Throughout the 1980s, the Phnom Penh continued to grow; by 1990 the population of Phnom Penh totaled 615,000.
Residents continued to restore, repair and develop the city by constructing new buildings throughout Phnom Penh.

F. UNTAC: 1992-1993

In 1992, the UN Transitional Authority in Cambodia arrived and assisted with organizing and supervising the democratic elections of 1993.
By this time, the population of Phnom Penh had grown to 1,300,000, with people gathering to settle illegally anywhere in the city.

G. The Kingdom of Cambodia: 1993-1998

In 1995, though the registered population totaled 824,000, many people, including, foreigners, traders, investors were living in Phnom Penh, bringing the population closer to 1,000,000.
In the same year, the government repaired and reconstructed National Road No. 4, National Road No. 6A, Boulevard Mao Tse Tong, the Cambodia-Japan Friendship Bridge, as well as parks, and other infrastructures
With aid from Holland, Japan, Australia, Germany and other countries, Phnom Penh was able to rebuild itself by continuing to repair and reconstruct boulevards, gardens, schools, hospitals, pagodas and so forth.
The city also received loans from Asia Development Bank and World Bank to rehabilitate water supply networks, sewage infrastructure, roads and lighting systems, the environment, and transportation.
In 1998 the city renovated the national landmarks of Wat Phnom and the Royal Palace Garden.
Today, Phnom Penh is divided into 7 districts: Daun Penh, 7 Makara, Toul Kork, Chamkarmon, Meanchey, Russey Keo & Dangkor; and 76 communes

Geography

Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh is located in the south-central region of Cambodia, at the confluence of the Tonlé Sap, Mekong, and Bassac Rivers. These rivers provide potential freshwater and other resources. The city, located at 11°33′00″N 104°55′00″E / 11.55°N 104.91667°E (11°33' North, 104°55' East, ), covers an area of 375 square kilometres (145 sq mi), with some 11,401 hectares (28,172 acres) in the municipality and 26,106 hectares (64,509 acres) of roads. The agricultural land in the municipality amounts to 34.685 square kilometres (13 sq mi) with some 1.476 square kilometres (365 acres) under irrigation.

Climate

The climate is hot year-round with only minor variations. City temperatures range from 18° to 38 °C (64° to 100 °F). Tropical monsoons are common particularly in the rainy season; southwest monsoons blow inland bringing moisture-laden winds from the Gulf of Thailand and Indian Ocean from May to October. The northeast monsoon ushers in the dry season, which lasts from November to March. The city experiences the heaviest precipitation from September to October with the driest period occurring from January to February.
Cambodia has two distinct seasons. The rainy season, which runs from May to October, can see temperatures rise up to 40 °C (104 °F) around April and is generally accompanied with high humidity. The dry season lasts from November to April when temperatures can drop to 22 °C (72 °F). The best months to visit the city are November to January when temperatures and humidity are lower.

	1863-1948	Flag of Cambodia under French protection
	1942-1945	Flag of Cambodia under Japanese occupation
	1948-1970	Flag of the Kingdom of Cambodia
	1970-1975	Flag of the Khmer Republic
	1975-1979	Flag of Democratic Kampuchea
	1979-1989	Flag of the People's Republic of Kampuchea
	1989-1991	Flag of the State of Cambodia
	1992-1993	Flag of Cambodia under the United Nations Transitional Authority in Cambodia (UNTAC)
	1993-present	Flag of the Kingdom of Cambodia
	Royal Crest	Royal Crest of the Kingdom of Cambodia